Home Projects DIY

Starting in a corner or at a doorway, measure out 1/2-inch less than the wallcovering width and make a mark. This is where the first seam will fall.
Using a carpenter’s level as a guide, draw a perfectly vertical line at this point and extend it from ceiling to floor. Measure the wall height, and align the desired pattern of the wallpaper at the ceiling line. Then cut a strip that is four inches longer than the wall.

Roll up strip loosely, paste-side out, and soak it briefly in water tray; see maker’s instructions for exact time. Pull strip face-down onto a table. Fold upper two-thirds over itself, paste-side in, taking care not to crease it. Fold lower third over itself. Note: Change the water every two or three strips. Each dip leaves residue in the water.

Unfold the top of the strip and smooth it in place. Overlap the ceiling by about two inches and align the strip along the marked line, not the corner or the door frame. Then open and smooth the bottom fold. Use a wet sponge to wipe off any excess glue.

Using a wide wallboard taping knife as a guide, trim the top and bottom of the strip with a sharp utility knife. Cut at a shallow angle and don’t lift the blade. Trim around door or window molding the same way; if the covering tends to bunch up at a molding corner, make a cut into the waste area before trimming, or try a new sharp blade.

Gently slide the second strip in place next to the first, and align the patterns. Make sure the edges just touch along the seam. After 10 to 15 minutes, flatten the edges with a seam roller. Note: Pressing a seam roller too hard may squeeze out the adhesive from the wallpaper.

Get the strips straight. Here’s how to keep patterns with a horizontal repeat on the straight and narrow: After hanging a strip, place a carpenter’s level along a design element and draw a perfectly horizontal line across the wall where you plan to hang the next strip. Align the new strip with the line. Do this for each strip.
Cutting corners. For the neatest results, cut the last partial strip on the first wall 1/4 inch wider than the space left so it wraps around the corner. For the abutting wall, measure the width of the cut-off piece and mark a new plumb line for it (see step 1, above) that distance from the corner.
Papering a switchplate? Keep these tips in mind: Start with a metal plate; it’s flatter than a plastic one. Clip the corners of the covering diagonally to prevent bunching. Use vinyl-on-vinyl adhesive; prepaste or glue won’t hold well. At a screw hole, make a small slit. When securing the plate to the wall, lift the edges of the wallcovering, insert the screw, and then smooth the edges flat over the screw.
Recycling the leftovers. After finishing a job, use wallcovering scraps to cover wastebaskets, lampshades, picture frames, window shades, shelves, books, and photo albums.

Needed Items:
1. wallcovering
2. canvas drop cloths
3. stepladder
4. yardstick and pencil
5. carpenter’s level
6. long scissors
7. bucket
8. water tray
9. table
10. large sponge
11. wide wallboard taping knife
12. utility knife with extra blades
13. seam roller

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Strippable wallcoverings can be entirely removed without leaving any backing on the wall. Peelable wallcoverings come off in two layers — the top vinyl coating, which peels off, and the paper backing, which is left on the wall.
To remove peelable wallcovering, pry under a lower corner with a stiff putty knife. Then gently peel upward until the entire vinyl coating is removed, leaving the paper backing behind.

To remove the paper backing — and many wallcoverings — from the wall, spray the wall surface with a mixture of hot water and a small amount of liquid dishwashing detergent, or with chemical wallpaper remover. Use a 5-gallon garden sprayer and wear eye protection if using chemicals. Spray walls from ceiling to floor, letting solution soak in. Continue until the paper bubbles up or separates from the wall.

Once the paper has bubbled up or separated from the wall, start scraping it off with a 6-in. wallboard taping knife. If the wallpaper is hard to remove, use a wallpaper stripper; don’t gouge wallboard walls. Before wetting walls, cover the floor, turn off the power, and tape over and around electrical and telephone outlets.

Some wallcoverings can be difficult to strip dry and are hard to penetrate with the wetting solution. If this is the case, score the wallcovering’s surface in a crisscross pattern with a scoring tool. Then spray with the wetting solution as before, letting it soak in and waiting until the paper starts to bubble up or separate. Scrape the surface with a wallboard taping knife or a wallpaper stripper.

After all the wallcovering and backing material has been scraped off, wash the walls with hot water and liquid dishwashing detergent or chemical wallpaper remover. You can also use a solution of d cup bleach in two gallons of hot water. Continue washing until all glue residue is removed. Before painting or hanging new wallcovering, apply a good-quality acrylic primer to the walls, and let it dry for 24 hours.

Vinegary glue remover. A solution of equal parts of white vinegar and hot water does a good job of softening the adhesive behind old wallpaper-and it’s much cheaper than a chemical remover. Even though the vinegar is nontoxic, its pungent smell can be irritating, so open the windows.

Messy business. When removing wallpaper or washing down walls, make sure you cover the entire floor surface with protective drop cloths. And because plastic is not absorbent, it’s better to use canvas drop cloths or plastic drop cloths that are backed with paper.

Take off glue residue. Use a window squeegee dipped in hot water to remove leftover wallcovering paste from stripped walls. Wipe the gunk off the blade frequently with a clean rag.

Off the floor. When removing old wallcovering, be sure to place it on a drop cloth, not on the floor. The solutions used to remove wallcovering can cause dyes to run, staining floors and other surfaces.

Neatness counts. Whatever tool you use for scraping off old wallcovering, take care not to damage the wall surface beneath. Any scratches or gouges that you accidentally make while scraping will have to be repaired prior to painting or hanging new wallcovering.

Cover-up test. If there is only one layer of untextured wallcovering on the wall and it’s still adhering tightly, you may be able to leave it in place and just hang the new wallcovering over it. One way to test the old wallcovering is by running your fingers over it; if you hear a crackling noise, the covering is loose and should be removed. Also check the edges and corners by prying them up with a putty knife. If large sections lift off, plan on removing the covering.

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